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Chapter 7 The new shop

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Before I could begin assembling the boat, or even building the larger parts, I had to take some time off and remodel the shop. When I bought our house, the previous owner had 10 kids. To obtain more bedrooms, the owner divided the original 2-car garage in half, turning it into a 1-car garage and 2 additional bedrooms. Now I needed the shop space, and, since my kids have all grown up, I had no need for two extra bedrooms. So out came the crowbars and sledgehammers. Now, at long last, my shop looks like this:


After working in a 10 x 20 shop for all these years, a 20 x 20 shop feels enormous! The Navigator lower panel sitting on the sawhorses seems almost lost, where before it would be difficult simply to walk around it.

Now that I have the space, I have been able to work at a much faster pace.

The lower panel has been scarfed and cut out.

The keel batten, made of recycled mahogany, was installed, as were the seat front stringers. Note that I chose to end the seat front stringers at bulkhead 5. I asked the designer, John Welsford, and he gave this the O.K. There is no need for them to continue forward of B5 and they are uncomfortable to step on.


Next came installing the centerboard case, which I built many months ago. It fit perfectly on the first try. I was glad that I built the centerboard and centerboard case together so that I could ensure that everything fit and operated properly before installing them in the boat. The interior of the case and the centerboard were both fiberglassed.  I was able to carefully control the amount of gap between the board and case. I was able to drill the pivot hole perfectly aligned by using the Shopsmith in drill press mode. These things would have been much more difficult to do if I had built the centerboard later on.


I used the Shopsmith in Horizontal Boring mode to drill the tow eye hole through the stem.


Installed the stem and bulkheads 1, 2 and 3.


Followed by bulkheads 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and the seat fronts. This is the most exciting part so far about building the Navigator. Its amazing how quickly the boat goes from a collection of bulkheads to something that really resembles a boat at this stage!


Next, on goes the transom


The next step is adding the stringers, but once the stringers are on it will be more difficult to reach the center of the boat. I decided this would be a good time to install the mast step, and to put a coat or two of epoxy on.

After coating with epoxy, the surface gets very rough as the epoxy raises the grain. The best tool by far for smoothing epoxy is a cabinet scraper. It is much, much faster than sandpaper and doesnt put clouds of toxic epoxy dust into the air. I got mine at Sears, but Duckworks carries them here.



To make the mast steps, I glued up a big block of mahogany, squared it up on the tablesaw, planed it to the proper thickness using the handy Safe-T-Planer.
Cut the center hole and drain hole. I lined the interior of the square hole with several layers of fiberglass and epoxy for wear protection. Before installing the step, I put a layer of fiberglass between the mast step and keel batten, again for wear protection. Then epoxied it in place and ran 4 stainless steel screws up through the lower panel, keel batten, and into the step from below.
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Photos from my shop from 1983 1996

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Here are some shots of some of the projects that I was involved in during this period. I will be posting many more shots as I get the time.
This is the Mako 17 hull with my plug modifications on the bottom and stern , waxed and ready for mold gelcoat and glass.

Mako remake hull out of mold, solid glass hull ready for custom interior, 1984 just across the street from Cambells Marina Tavernier Florida Keys. Thats Lawnada my ex and Christian Kuerstiner  helping to lift hull into the garage we were renting for a shop.

These are the wood plugs I make to form the hatch drain moldings for the decks. The red is clay that becomes the radius edges. Very fast and simple to do.

Deck is laid up and flipped over and I am pulling out the hatch moldings. I now have this system down to very few parts. To make a custom deck this way it takes from start to finish about a week.

Bert Sherbs deck after all the plugs pulled. This is the deck idea that I believe that Silver King copied. 
This deck weighed about 100 lbs
Here I am 25 years old laying up cored stingers in 17 ft. Hull in 1983 using S- glass over core.

Interior shot of hull # 1 of Mako remakes 1983.

Stern lockers before floors going in. Way over built by my standards today as hull would be all core so would not need the stringer.

Charley Causeys hull just launched with Rick Justice who rigged it starting up the Merc. 1983.

Charley and I going out for test ride. I ended up building 3 different skiffs for Charley over the years.This is the canal inPlantation Key in1983.

This is Carl Naverras  all core skiff made up with all S- glass cloth and core. I believe this to be the first all core boat. 1984.

    Here I am in1984 just moved into my new shop in Tavernier , Key Largo finishing off Carls all core skiff " Back lash" . One time a couple of clients were in the shop as I was working and one said to the other " boy you sure couldnt get a Cuban to do this kind of work" . I looked up smiling and said , " well youre getting half of one right now as my dad is Cuban !" 
My mom was born in Sweden so I am a first generation half breed American.
 Hal Chittums Mako experimental skiff getting ready to flip over for painting. This boat was cored in all plywood. Weighed a ton .Thats Ray Dye and me in what is now the middle of World Wide Sportsmens shop in Islamorada. 1982.

Hal Chittums Mako Experimental skiff finished waiting for Ray Dye to rig. I am 24 years old in this shot.

 This is Sandy Morets all core Kevlar skiff one off that was finished in my new shop in 1986.

Sandy Morrets skiff.

Stern shot of one off skiff that I designed and built for Charley Causey that is the predecessor to the Whip Ray. I built this boat in Marathon Florida Keys  in 1995.

Whip Ray predecessor one off 1995 all core.

 Whip Ray predecessor one off .


Whip Ray predecessor side view ready for glass skin. I built these one off skiffs from design to finish alone in 3 months time in very simple work shops so I feel everybody should be able to do the same with a little guidance .

Finished skiff with a big ass motor on the stern 1996. This is the skiff that I told Hal Chittum and Flip Pallot to go for a ride in before we talked about their ultimate John Boat idea.This skiff cost fully rigged as a one off $ 20,000.00 . I have always built my skiffs on a set price and always made a living. The best deals out there today are used skiffs, but a one off can be built for a fraction of a new skiff if you have the inclination and drive.

 More photos to come and Chapter 2 about my time at Hells Bay. Thanks to my daughter Lillian for helping me post these shots as all this computer stuff is way above my pay grade.

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